Extract from A Voyage to Establish a Colony at Port Philip in Bass's Strait on the South Coast of New South Wales, in His Majesty's Ship Calcutta, in the Years 1802/3/4
Author: James Hingston Tuckey (1776-1816)
On Saturday, October 10th, we at last made King Island[7], in the
entrance of Bass's Straits, which we had anxiously looked out for the
two proceeding days; the wind being from the N. E. obliged us to stand
within three miles of the island, which through the haze we observed to
be moderately high and level, with three sandy hills nearly in the
centre. The increasing breeze and lowering sky, which portended a coming
gale, prevented our examining the island more minutely. Fortunately we
stood off in time to gain a sufficient offing before the gale commenced,
which during the night blew a perfect hurricane between the N. W. and S.
W. This night of danger and anxiety, was succeeded by a morning
beautifully serene, which shewed us the southern coast of New South
Wales. From the total want of information respecting the appearance of
the land on this coast, we were doubtful as to our situation, and
approached the shore with cautious diffidence; at length the break in
the land, which forms the entrance of Port Philip, was observed, but a
surf, apparently breaking across it[8], created, at first, some mistrust
of its identity, until the man at the mast-head observing a ship at
anchor within, which was soon recognized for the Ocean, removed all
doubt, and without farther hesitation we pushed in for the entrance. A
fair wind and tide soon carried us through; and in a few minutes we were
presented with a picture highly contrasted with the scene we had lately
contemplated: an expanse of water bounded in many places only by the
horizon, and unruffled as the bosom of unpolluted innocence, presented
itself to the charmed eye, which roamed over it in silent admiration.
The nearer shores, along which the ship glided at the distance of a
mile, afforded the most exquisite scenery, and recalled the idea of
"Nature in the world's first spring." In short, every circumstance
combined to impress our minds with the highest satisfaction for our safe
arrival, and in creating those emotions which diffused themselves in
thanksgiving to that Almighty Guide, who conducted us through the
pathless ocean, to the spot of our destination.
[7. Named after P. G. King, Esq. the present Governor of New South
Wales.]
[8. This we afterwards found was occasioned by the rapidity of the ebb
tide, counteracted by the wind, which created a breaking sea, that must
destroy the best constructed open boat.]
CHAPTER. V.
Transactions at Port Philip from the Arrival to the Sailing of the
Calcutta.--Survey of the Port.--Natives.--Communication with Port
Jackson.--Determination to remove the Colony.--Examination of Western
Port.
The week following our arrival at Port Philip was occupied in searching
for an eligible place to fix the settlement. As it was of the first
consequence that this should be of easy access to shipping, the shores
near the mouth of the port were first examined. Here, to our great
mortification, we observed a total want of fresh water, and found the
soil so extremely light and sandy as to deny all hopes of successful
cultivation. As it was, however, determined to land the people, a small
bay, eight miles from the harbour's mouth, was pitched upon for that
purpose, where, by sinking casks, water of a tolerable quantity was
procured, and here the camp was pitched; and on the 16th of October, the
marines and convicts were landed, while the ships immediately began to
discharge their cargoes.
On the first days of our landing, previous to the general debarkation,
Capt. Woodriff, Colonel Collins, and the First Lieutenant of the
Calcutta had some interviews with the natives who came to the boats
entirely unarmed, and without the smallest symptom of apprehension;
presents of blankets biscuits &c. were given to them, with which, except
in one instance, they departed satisfied and inoffensive. The wash
streak of the boat striking one of their fancies, he seized it and threw
it behind some bushes; to shew him the impropriety of this, the blankets
which had before been given them were taken away, and they were made to
understand, that they would not be restored until the board was brought
back by him who conveyed it away: this, after some delay and much
reluctance, was at last done.
Though the vicinity of the harbour's mouth afforded no situation
calculated for the establishment of the colony, it was naturally
expected from the extent of the port, (its extremes being sunk in the
horizon,) that convenient spots might be found; and the First Lieutenant
of the Calcutta, with two boats, was directed to ascertain this material
point, by as careful a survey of the port as time would permit. From the
reports of this survey, made to Capt. Woodriff, the following
descriptive particulars are extracted.
Port Philip lies in the bottom of a deep bight between Cape Albany Otway
and Point Schank. Coming from the westward, the Port may be known by a
single bluff head-land without trees, rising from low land, thickly
wooded, about four leagues to the westward of the entrance, to which we
gave the name of Whale-head, from its resemblance to that fish. The
prevalence of southerly winds renders Port Philip easily accessible, but
in the same proportion the egress is difficult, for Point Schank bearing
S. E. and Cape Otway S. W. it is obvious that with the wind at south a
ship would not clear either, and the heavy swell that constantly tumbles
on the coast between Port Philip and Western Port, will often render it
impossible (particularly in light winds) to keep off the shore, which
here presents a continued barrier of rock, that denies the smallest
hopes of escape to those dashed upon it.
The face of the country bordering on the port is beautifully
picturesque, swelling into gentle elevations of the brightest verdure,
and dotted with trees, as if planted by the hand of taste, while the
ground is covered with a profusion of flowers of every colour; in short,
the external appearance of the country flattered us into the most
delusive dreams of fruitfulness and plenty.
The soil (except in a few places where marle is found mixed with
vegetable mould,) is invariably sandy, and its blackness proceeds from
the ashes of the burnt grass, which has everwhere been set fire to by
the natives. The proportion of sand varies, and in some spots the soil
may be sufficiently strong to produce vegetables, and, perhaps, Indian
corn; but it may safely be asserted, that (excepting a few acres at the
head of the port) no spot within five miles of the water will produce
wheat or any other grain that requires either much moisture or good
soil. On some of the highest elevations an arid sea-sand is found,
giving nourishment to no other vegetable than heath and fern. The bases
of the hills consist of very coarse granite, which is here found in
every stage of formation, from grains scarcely adhering, and crumbling
into sand between the fingers, to the perfect stone which almost defies
the chissel.
The great scarcity of water is one of the greatest disadvantages the
port labours under. In the narrow glens between the hills, the marks of
watercourses are visible, but at this time (October) they are mostly
dried up; pools of fresh water are found scattered about the port, but
they are merely drains from swamps, and from their stagnation are
strongly impregnated with decayed vegetable substances.
On the eastern side of the port, twenty-eight miles from the entrance, a
stream of fresh water empties itself into the port. This stream runs
through an extensive swamp, and appears to be a branch from a large
river, at the northern extremity of the port, which the shortness of
time and badness of the weather prevented our examining. The bed of this
stream is covered with foliaceous mica, which our people at first
conceived to be gold dust, and thence expected they had discovered an
Elsatedorado.
On the west side of the port is an extensive lagoon, the water of which
is too shoal to admit even small boats but at full tides; and in several
places salt lagoons are found, generally closed by the beach, where
ducks, teal, and swans are found in abundance.
The timber, within five miles of the beach, is chiefly the she-oak,
which is only fit for cabinet word; the trees are open, and the country
is entirely free from underwood, except in the swamps, which are always
covered with an impenetrable brush. The other kinds of timber trees are
very thinly scattered within the above limits; they are the blue-gum,
stringy-bark, honeysuckle, box, and a kind of pine; of these the three
first grow to a large size, and when sound, would probably be useful in
shipbuilding. From the lightness of the soil, as well as its want of
depth, the trees shoot their roots horizontally, and having no hold of
the ground, are blown down in great numbers by every strong wind.
Of potable vegetables, wild celery, wild parsnip, scurvy grass, and
samphire, were found in great abundance, and several other kinds were
eaten by our people[1]. The only fruits we found were the cone of the
she oak, which, when green, has a pleasantly acid taste, and a small
berry, called by the colonists the Port Jackson cherry.
[1. Vide Addenda II.]
The kangaroo is the largest animal yet discovered in New Holland; it
inhabits the neighbourhood of Port Philip in considerable numbers,
weighing from 50 to 150lb.; the native dog, the opossum, flying
squirrel, and field-rat make up the catalogue of animals we observed.
Aquatic birds are found in abundance on the lagoons, and are black
swans, ducks, teal, black and pied shags, pelicans, gulls, red-bills (a
beach bird), herons, curlows, and sand larks; the land birds are eagles,
crows, ravens, quail, bronze-winged pigeons, and many beautiful
varieties of the parrot tribe, particularly the large black cockatoo;
the emue is also a native of this part of the country, its eggs having
been found here. Three varieties of snakes were observed, all of which
appeared to be venomous. The species of insects are almost innumerable:
among them are upwards of one hundred and fifty different kinds of
beautiful moths; several kinds of beetles the animated straw, &c. The
swamps are inhabited by myriads of musquitoes of an extraordinary size;
but the common fly, which swarms almost beyond belief, possesses all the
offensive powers of the musquitoe, its sting creating an equal degree of
pain and inflammation. Wasps are also common, but no bees were seen.
Fish, it may safely be asserted, is so scarce that it could never be
depended on as a source of effectual relief in the event of scarcity.
Several varieties of the ray were almost the only ones caught, with
sometimes a few mullet, and other small fish; in general, a day's work
with the seine produced scarcely a good dish of fish. The number of
sharks which infest the harbour may occasion this scarcity of small
fish. The rocks outside the harbour's mouth are frequented by seals and
sea elephants. The shell-fish are oysters, limpits, mussels, escalops,
cockles, sea-ears; and very large cray-fish are found among the rocks.
Deeming minerals, as well as limestone, coal, and clays, of the greatest
consequence to the colony, particular attention was paid to searching
for them; the only appearance of minerals was in large masses of
iron-stone, in some specimens of which, the shape, colour, and weight
seemed to authorise the conclusion of its richness[2]. Lime-stone was
found in many places, but the search for coal was fruitless. Several
kinds of clay fit for pottery, bricks &c. were found in abundance, but
always, more or less, mixed with sand; indeed, after displacing a thin
covering of sand and ashes, the bottom, in most places, was found to be
a soft, friable sand stone of a yellowish colour.
[2. From this stone, when pulverised, the natives, I suppose, procure the
red earth with which they paint their faces.]
With respect to climate, we had not sufficient time to judge of its
effects on the human constitution; the vicissitudes of heat and cold are
very great, the thermometer varying from 50° to 96°, between sun-rise
and noon of the same day; and on the 19th and 21st of October it froze
pretty smartly at the head of the port. The N. W. winds, which come on
in violent squalls, have all the disagreeable effects of the sirocco of
the Levant, but seldom last more than an hour, when the wind returns to
the S. W. with thunder, lightning, and rain.[3]
[3. Vide Addenda III.]
The N. W. side of the port, where a level plain extends to the northward
as far as the horizon, appears to be by far the most populous; at this
place, upwards of two hundred natives assembled round the surveying
boats, and their obviously hostile intentions made the application of
fire-arms absolutely necessary to repel them, by which one native was
killed, and two or three wounded. Previous to this time, several
interviews had been held with separate parties, at different places,
during which the most friendly intercourse was maintained, and
endeavoured to be strengthened on our part, by presents of blankets,
beads, &c. At these interviews they appeared to have a perfect knowledge
of the use of fire-arms; and as they seemed terrified even at the sight
of them, they were kept entirely out of view. The last interview which
terminated so unexpectedly hostile, had at its commencement the same
friendly appearance. Three natives, unarmed, came to the boats, and
received fish, bread, and blankets. Feeling no apprehension from three
naked and unarmed savages, the First Lieutenant proceeded with one boat
to continue the survey, while the other boat's crew remained on shore to
dress dinner and procure water. The moment the first boat disappeared
the three natives took leave, and in less than an hour returned with
forty more, headed by a chief who seemed to possess much authority. This
party immediately divided, some taking off the attention of the people
who had charge of the tent, (in which was Mr. Harris the surveyor of the
colony,) while the rest surrounded the boats, the oars, masts, and sails
of which were used in erecting the tent. Their intention was to plunder
was immediately visible, and all the exertions of the boat's crew were
insufficient to prevent their possessing themselves of a tomahawk, an
axe, and a saw. In this situation, as it was impossible to get the boat
away, every thing belonging to her being on shore, it was thought
advisable to temporise, and wait the return of the other boat, without
having recourse to fire-arms, if it could possibly be avoided; and for
this purpose, bread, meat, and blankets were given them. These
condescensions, however, seemed only to increase their boldness, and
their numbers having been augmented by the junction of two other
parties, amounted to more than two hundred. At this critical time the
other boat came in sight, and observing the crowd and tumult at the
tent, pushed towards them with all possible dispatch. Upon approaching
the shore, the unusual warlike appearance of the natives was immediately
observed, and as they seemed to have entire possession of the tent,
serious apprehensions were entertained for Mr. Harris and two of the
boat's crew, who it was noticed were not at the boat. At the moment that
the grapnel was hove out of the Lieutenant's boat, to prevent her taking
the ground, one of the natives seized the master's mate, who had charge
of the other boat, and held him fast in his arms, a general cry of
"Fire, Sir; for God's sake, fire!" was now addressed from those on shore
to the First Lieutenant. Hoping the report only would sufficiently
intimidate them, two muskets were fired over their heads; for a moment
they seemed to pause, and a few retreated behind the trees, but
immediately returned, clapping their hands, and shouting vehemently.
Four musquets with buck shot, and the fowling-pieces of the gentlemen
with small shot, were now fired among them, and from a general howl,
very different from their former shouts, many were supposed to be
struck. This discharge created a general panic, and leaving their cloaks
behind, they ran in every direction among the trees. It was hoped the
business would have terminated here, and orders were, therefore, given
to strike the tent, and prepare to quit the territory of such
disagreeable neighbours. While thus employed, a large party were seen
again assembling behind a hill, at the foot of which was our tent: they
advanced in a compact body to the brow of the hill, every individual
armed with a spear, and some, who appeared to be attendants of others,
carrying bundles of them; when within an hundred yards of us they
halted, and the chief, with one attendant, came down to the tent, and
spoke with great vehemence, holding a very large war spear in a position
for throwing. The First Lieutenant, wishing to restore peace if
possible, laid down his gun, and advancing to the chief, presented him
with several cloaks, necklaces, and spears, which had been left behind
on their retreat; the chief took his own cloak and necklace, and gave
the others to his attendant. His countenance and gestures all this time
betrayed more of anger than fear, and his spear appeared every moment
upon the point of quitting his hand. When the cloaks were all given up,
the body on the hill began to descend, shouting and flourishing their
spears. Our people were immediately drawn up, and ordered to present
their musquets loaded with ball, while a last attempts were made to
convince the chief that if his people continued to approach they would
be immediately fired upon. These threats were either not properly
understood, or were despised, and it was deemed absolutely necessary for
our own safety, to prove the power of our fire-arms, before they came
near enough to injure us with their spears; selecting one of the
foremost, who appeared to be most violent, as a proper example, three
musquets were fired at him at fifty yards distance, two of which took
effect, and he fell dead on the spot, the chief turning round at the
report saw him fall, and immediately fled among the trees; a general
dispersion succeeded, and the dead body was left behind.
Among these savages, gradations of rank could be distinctly traced,
founded most probably upon personal qualities and external appearance.
In these respects the chief far excelled the rest; his figure was
masculine and well-proportioned, and his air bold and commanding. When
first he was seen approaching the boat, he was raised upon the shoulders
of two men, and surrounded by the whole party, shouting and clapping
their hands. Besides his cloak, which was only distinguished by its
superior size, he wore a necklace of reeds, and several strings of human
hair over his breast. His head was adorned with a coronet of the
wing-feathers of the swan, very neatly arranged, and which had a
pleasing effect. The fases of several were painted with red, white, and
yellow clays,[4] and others had a reed or bone ran through the septum of
the nose, perhaps increasing in length according to rank, for the
chief's was by far the longest, and must have measured at least two
feet. Ornamental scars on the shoulders were general and the face of one
was deeply pitted as if from the small-pox, though that disease in not
known to exist in New Holland[5]. A very great difference was observed
in the comparative cleanliness of these savages; some of them were so
abominably beastly, that it required the strongest stomach to look on
them without nausea, while others were sufficiently cleanly to be viewed
without disgust. The beards, which are remarkably bushy in the former
were allowed to grow, while in the latter they were cut close,
apparently by a sharp instrument, probably a shell.
[4. In viewing the manners of man in his most savage state, in which a
cultivated mind sees only disgusting images of wretchedness, we yet
cannot fail to notice that universal principle, which seems to act with
equal force upon the refined courtier of Europe and the wandering savage
of the desert. The Parisian beau cannot take greater pains in adjusting
his hair, or perfuming himself with the odours of the East, than the
savage does in bedaubing his face with clays, or anointing his skin with
the blubber of the whale. To carry the proof yet farther, we find that
savages who are unaquainted with the adventitious ornaments of dress
have recourse to various methods of altering the natural forms of the
limbs or features, or to marking the body with scars, punctures, &c.
which they deem highly ornamental. Among some tribes the head is
flattened, among others it is rendered more convex, but the nose and
ears are the chief objects of their personal vanity, and among all the
savage tribes I have seen, they undergo some kind of distortion. As
these operations are performed in infancy, when the parts are flexible,
and capable of taking any form, we are often led to conclude, that to be
the natural configuration, which is only the effect of artificial
distortion.]
[5. Two attempts have been made to convey the vaccine matter to New South
Wales, one by the Glatton, and the other by the Calcutta, but both
failed of success. Are we certain that any advantage would have accrued
from the introduction of such a disorder into the colony? Hear what a
celebrated writer says on this subject: "Distempers, local in their
origin, become more formidable when transplanted, than in their native
soil; the small-pox, so little feared in Europe, almost depopulated
America, and the plague is much more inveterate when it invades Europe,
than in its native East. This is easily accounted for; the human frame
is prepared by custom and by climate for the admission of the native
disease, which is not the case where it is transported." What opinion
would we form of an attempt to introduce a new disease into England,
merely to prevent the evils attending the possible introduction of the
plague!]
The only covering they make use of, to preserve their persons from the
winter's cold, is a square cloak of opossum skins, neatly sewed
together, and thrown loosely over their shoulders; the fleshy side,
which is worn inwards, is marked with parallel lines, forming squares,
lozenges, &c. and sometimes with uncouth human figures in the attitudes
of dancing.
Their arms are spears, used with a throwing stick, like those of Port
Jackson; their shields are made of a hard wood and neatly carved; their
war spears are barbed with pieces of white spar, of shark's teeth,
fastened on with red gum, and within a certain distance must be very
dangerous offensive weapons. Their fish-gigs are pointed with the bone
of the kangaroo, and with them they strike the rays which lay in shoal
water. We saw no fish hooks, no other implements for fishing in deep
water, nor any appearance of canoe, or other water conveyance[6]. Their
food consists chiefly of shell-fish, and their ingenuity in procuring
more substantial aliment, seems confined to the construction of a rude
trap, upon the projecting points of the harbour, where the water-fowl
lighting at night are entangled and caught. The scarcity of food must at
times reduce them to great extremities. If they ever quit the vicinity
of the water, their sole subsistence must be on lizards, grubs, and the
few opossums they may be able to kill; for the kangaroo, both by its
activity and wariness, I should suppose to be out of reach of their
weapons, or their ingenuity. The skins of these animals having never
been seen with the natives corroborates this opinion, and it is
probable, that the bones with which their fish-gigs are pointed, are
those of animals which have died a natural death. That they scruple not
to eat lizards and grubs, as well as a very large worm found in the
gum-trees, we had ocular demonstration; indeed the latter they seem to
consider a very great delicacy. Bread, beef, and fish, which they
received from us, they devoured with great eagerness, swallowing large
pieces without chewing, as if afraid of its being taken from them, but
in no instance could we get them to drink. Spirits they appeared to
dislike from the smell alone, and sweet punch they would taste and spit
out again with disapprobation. They chew the green leaves of various
plants, several of which had a slight astringent taste, and an aromatic
smell.
[6. I have since been informed, that canoes were found on the river at
the head of the port.]
The huts merely serve the purpose of temporary shelter from the weather.
They are constructed of branches of trees placed slanting and open on
one side, which is always to leeward; if a fallen tree is near, it
usually serves to support the hut, and sometimes when coarse grass is
convenient, it is interwoven with the branches. Their fires are made at
the very entrance of the huts, and if the wind shifts must be
immediately removed. We had no opportunity of observing their method of
first kindling a fire, as the parties we saw had always a fire-brand
with them, by which, and a little dry grass, they soon made a "roaring
blaze."
The only traces of society we could observe, was in a cluster of five
huts, near which a well of brackish water was probably the only
inducement to so close a neighbourhood. How they supply themselves with
water in general we were at a loss to guess, for, upon the closest
examination, none was found within several miles of the place where
they had constructed their huts.
We had a sufficient proof of their burying their dead, by finding a
human skeleton three feet under ground, while digging for water; its
decayed state evinced its having been in the ground long before the
arrival of any European at this port.
The only domestic utensil observed among them was a straw basket, made
with tolerable neatness. Their cookery is confined to broiling, in which
they are not very delicate; for the fish they sometimes received from us
were put on the fire, and devoured without the useless preparation of
gutting, cleaning, &c. Blankets they received with much satisfaction;
but though several to whom they were given paid us visits afterwards,
their blankets were always left behind, and they presented themselves
shivering with cold. This manoeuvre might probably have been intended to
induce a repetition of the gift, unless we suppose them to have been
given to their women, which would argue a degree of civilization, from
which they are immeasurably removed. Though in our first interviews they
seemed to be stupidly devoid of curiosity, and viewed our persons and
boats with the most perfect indifference, yet their latter conduct
shews, that many of our conveniences appeared valuable, and fear was at
last found much more powerful in deterring them from approriating those
things to themselves, than any idea of right or wrong.
The natives of this part of New South Wales appear to differ very little
from those in the vicinity of Port Jackson; the same cast of features
bespeaks the same origin; their arms, their ornaments, and their dances,
are much alike, and they seem to differ only in language, and in the
ceremony of knocking out a front tooth of every male, those of Port
Philip having their jaws perfect. One woman only was seen, who retired
by desire of the men on our approach, and one boy paid us a visit, from
whose conduct we could not infer the existence of a great degree of
subordination, founded on difference of age; this youngster was more
loquacious and troublesome than the men.
Nothing could offer a more perfect picture of reposing solitude, than
the wilds of Port Philip on our first arrival. Here Contemplation, with
her musing sister Melancholy, might find an undisturbed retreat. Often
at the calm hour of evening I have wandered through the woods,
Where the rude ax with heaved stroke
Was never heard the nymphs to daunt,
Or fright them from their hallow'd haunts.
The last hymn of the feathered choiristers to the setting sun, and the
soft murmers of the breeze, faintly broke the death-like silence that
reigned around; while the lightly trodden path of the solitary savage,
or the dead ashes of his fire, alone pointed out the existence of human
beings. In the course of a very few weeks the scene was greatly altered;
lanes were cut in the woods for the passage of the timber carriages; the
huts of the woodmen were erected beneath the sheltering branches of the
lofty trees; the "busy hum" of their voices, and the sound of their
axes, reverberating through the woods, denote the exertions of social
industry, and the labours of civilization. At other times, sitting on
the carriage of a gun, in front of the camp, I have contemplated with
succeeding emotions of pity, laughter, and astonishment, the scene
before me. When I viewed so many of my fellowmen, sunk, some of them
from a rank in life, equal to or superior to my own, and by their crimes
degraded to a level with the basest of mankind; when I saw them naked,
wading to their shoulders in water to unlade the boats, while a burning
sun struck its meridian rays upon their uncovered heads, or yoked to and
sweating under a timber carriage, the wheels of which were sunk up to
the axle in sand, I only considered their hapless lot, and the
rememberance of of their vices was for a moment absorbed in the
greatness of their punishment; I exclaimed with enthusiasm,
'Tis liberty alone that gives the flower
Of fleeting life its lustre and perfume,
And we are weeds without it.
When, on the other hand, I viewed the lively appearance of the camp, the
employments of the women, and the ridiculous dilemmas into which they
were every moment thrown by the novelty of their situations, I smiled,
and inwardly admiring the pliability of mind, which enables us to
accomodate ourselves to the vicissitudes of fortune, confessed that the
pride of independence, and the keen sensibility of prosperity, like
marks imprinted on the sand, are soon effaced by the current of adverse
circumstances. What once seemed more valuable than life itself, even
female virtue, grows weaker by degrees, and at last falls a sacrifice to
present convenience; so true is the poet's exclamation, that "want will
perjure the ne'er touch'd vestal."
And now again, when I consider the motives; when I contrasted the
powers, the ingenuity, and the resources of civilized man, with the
weakness, the ignorance, and the wants of the savage he came to
dispossess, I acknowledged the immensity of human intelligence, and felt
thankful for the small portion dispensed to myself. These thoughts
naturally led to the contemplation of future possibilities. I beheld a
second Rome, rising from a coalition of banditti. I beheld it giving
laws to the world, and superlative in arms and in arts, looking down
with proud superiority upon the barbarous nations of the northern
hemisphere; thus running over the airy visions of empire, wealth, and
glory, I wandered amidst the delusions of imagination.
The unfavourable account given of Port Philip, by the First Lieutenant
of the Calcutta, immediately presented the necessity of removing the
colony to a more eligible situation, but from a total want of knowledge
respecting any recent discoveries, which might have been made on the
neighbouring coasts, it was deemed necessary to receive instructions on
this head from the Governor in Chief at Port Jackson. The Ocean
transport, being now discharged, was to proceed on her voyage to China,
and could not, therefore, be detained without a heavy expence to
government. Thus the only means left of communicating with Port Jackson
was by an open boat; a six oared cutter was accordingly fitted for the
purpose, in which Mr. Collins (who came out on a sealing speculation)
undertook to convey the Lieutenant Governor's dispatches. After being
nine days at sea, and encountering much bad weather, he was picked up by
the Ocean (who sailed six days after him), within sixty miles of Port
Jackson, and by her conveyed thither. Governor King, from a correct
survey of Port Philip, made by Mr. Grimes, the Surveyor General of the
Colony, was already convinced of its ineligibility for a settlement, and
immediately chartered the Ocean to remove the establishment, either to
Port Dalrymple, on the north side of Van Diemen's land, or to the river
Derwent, on the south coast of the same island, where a small party from
Port Jackson was already established.
As the farther detention of the Calcutta, after the removal was finally
concluded on, would greatly retard the principal object of her voyage,
the conveying a cargo of ship timber to England, without any adequate
advantage to the Colony, she quitted Port Philip on the 18th of
December, leaving the Colonists preparing to re-embark on board the
Ocean.
While the Calcutta remained at Port Philip, besides the necessary duties
of the ship, the crew were actively employed in collecting such
specimens of ship-timber as the place afforded; and about one hundred
and fifty pieces of compass timber, chiefly honeysuckle, were
procured.[7]
[7. Vide Addenda, No. IV.]
During the period of uncertainty, between the sailing of the boat, and
the return of advices from Port Jackson, the First Lieutenant of the
Calcutta, with several other officers, and a party of convicts to carry
provisions, proceeded by land to examine Western Port[7a.], and ascertain
the correctness of the description given of it by the first discoverers,
particularly with respect to coal, in which it was said to abound. From
the camp we proceeded across the peninsula to where the ridge of
Arthur's Seat descends to the sea. This peninsula is formed entirely of
sand, thrown up into round hillocks, and covered with coarse grass in
tufts; the only trees here are the she-oak, which are small and open.
After passing the ridge of Arthur's Seat we proceeded in a direction due
east, nearly Parallel to the sea-shore, of which we sometimes came in
sight, until we reached a point projecting into the sea, which we
supposed to be Cape or Point Schank; in this space the land continues to
rise, and forms in larger and steeper hills, separated by narrow glens,
but the soil is still very sandy, and no water is to be found, even by
digging in the hollows several feet deep. After passing Cape Schank, the
country immediately assumes a quite different appearance; the soil
changes to a stiff clay; the she-oak gives place to the blue-gum, and
two strong runs of water fall into the sea immediately under the Cape.
Here we halted for the night, and, following the example of the natives,
erected a hut, and made a fire within a few feet of its entrance. This
point we supposed to be twenty five miles distant from the camp. At
day-light we again commenced our march, guided by a pocket-compass; and
keeping at the distance of between three and five miles from the sea at
noon reached Western Port, about two miles from its entrance. From Cape
Schank the country is varied by hills and vallies, the soil of the
former being a stiff clay, with very lofty gum-trees; and of the latter,
a rich black mould several feet deep, except in a few spots where a
black peaty earth was found. The grass in these vallies is extremely
luxuriant; some of them are over grown with under-wood, while others
possess scarce a single shrub. In this track are several small runs of
water, emptying themselves into the sea by deep ravines.
[7a. Western Port was discovered by Lieutenant Flinders, in 1799.]
Our examination of Western Port was unavoidably confined to the space of
a few miles on the western shore; this was principally owing to the man
who carried the whole of our bread, having absconded soon after quitting
the camp, and to our being deceived in the extent of the Port, as well
as the distance to it; which we found much greater than we had any idea
of.
We were provisioned only for four days, at short allowance; for trusting
to our guns for an addition to our fare, we employed most of our party
to carry water, being ignorant whether any was to be found in our route.
From the entrance of the Port for about twelve miles along the western
shore, there is but one place of commodious landing for boats; the beach
being either a black plate rock, or a flat sand running out a quarter of
a mile; upon which a long and dangerous surf continually breaks. There
are three good runs of water in this space, which falling from the
hills, form pools at their base, and are absorbed by the soft sand of
the beach. We found these pools covered with teal of a beautiful
plumage, and, what was to us of much more importance, of a delicious
flavor.
As our track to Western Port had never diverged more than five miles
from the sea, it was determined, on returning, to endeavour to penetrate
through the country in a N. W. direction, which we supposed would bring
us to Port Philip at about twenty miles distance from the camp. We
accordingly set off at daylight of the third day, from our night's
station, which was about five miles from the entrance of Western Port,
and had scarce walked a quarter of a mile when we came to an immense
forest of lofty gum-trees. The country here becomes very mountainous: in
the vallies or rather chasms between the mountains, small runs of water
trickle through an almost impenetrable jungle of prickly shrubs, bound
together by creeping plants. After passing eight of these deep chasms in
six miles, which was accomplished with infinite difficulty in four
hours, we found the country grows still more impenetrable, vast fields
of shrub as prickly as furze arresting our progress every moment.
Several of our people who carried the water, being unable to bear the
fatigue any longer, we were obliged to give up our intention; and after
a short rest, we shaped our course to the S. W. in order to approach the
sea, where the country becomes open and less hilly. In this direction we
found the country well-watered, the soil very rich, and in many places
meadows of from fifty to an hundred acres, covered with grass five feet
high, and unincumbered with a single tree. At sun-set we reached the sea
at Cape Schank, and, halting for the night, arrived at the camp in the
afternoon of the next day.
Our search for coal, which we were given to understand abounded at
Western Port, was fruitless; but our examination was too circumscribed
and superficial to authorize any positive assertion respecting it.
The coast between the ridge of Arthur's Seat and Western Port is bound
by rocks of black stone, which was found to burn to a strong lime. The
projecting points of land are high, bluff, and perpendicular, presenting
a barrier to the sea which breaks against them, even in the finest
weather, with violence, denying shelter by anchorage, or safety by
running on shore for the smallest boat.
Besides herds of kangeroos, four large wolves were seen at Western Port.
Very beautiful bronze-winged pigeons with black and white cockatoos, and
innumerable parrots, inhabit the woods.
Though this excursion added but little to the knowledge of the country,
it is hoped it will not be entirely devoid of utility. In those spots
which appeared best adapted to the purpose, seeds from Rio Janeiro and
the Cape were sown, viz. oranges, limes, melons, pumpkins, Indian corn,
and several kinds of garden seeds.
But two huts were found in our track, and not a native was seen; indeed
the kangaroo seems to reign undisturbed lord of the soil, a dominion
which, by the evacuation of Port Philip, he is likely to retain for
ages.
Several convicts absconded from the camp soon after their landing, led
away by the most delusive ideas of reaching Port Jackson, or getting on
board some whaler, which they ignorantly believed occasionally touched
on this coast; some of them were brought back by parties sent after
them, and others returned voluntarily, when nearly famished with hunger.
Two only of these unfortunate beings were never heard of after leaving
the camp, one of these was George Lee, a character well known to several
persons of respectability in England.
After the Calcutta quitted Port Philip, a vessel was sent to examine
Port Dalrymple; the accounts brought back not being so favourable as was
hoped for, it was finally determined to remove the Colony to the river
Darwent, which was partly accomplished before the Calcutta sailed from
Port Jackson. The name of Hobart was given to the Settlement, and the
most flattering accounts were received from the Lieutenant Governor, of
the situation, soil, and climate. Speaking of the climate, he says, that
it may be considered the Montpelier of New South Wales.
The remainder of the Calcutta's voyage was almost totally barren of
incident, either to amuse or instruct. She sailed from Port Philip the
18th of December, and passing through Bass's Straits, without
experiencing any difficulties, arrived at Port Jackson the 26th. Here
she took in a cargo of ship timber (about six hundred logs) and sailed
again on the 17th March 1804; passed to the southward of New Zealand,
which was seen on the 29th; doubled Cape Horn on the 27th April, and
arrived at Rio de Janeiro the 22d May; thus accomplishing a voyage round
the world, discharging and receiving a cargo, in eleven months
entrance of Bass's Straits, which we had anxiously looked out for the
two proceeding days; the wind being from the N. E. obliged us to stand
within three miles of the island, which through the haze we observed to
be moderately high and level, with three sandy hills nearly in the
centre. The increasing breeze and lowering sky, which portended a coming
gale, prevented our examining the island more minutely. Fortunately we
stood off in time to gain a sufficient offing before the gale commenced,
which during the night blew a perfect hurricane between the N. W. and S.
W. This night of danger and anxiety, was succeeded by a morning
beautifully serene, which shewed us the southern coast of New South
Wales. From the total want of information respecting the appearance of
the land on this coast, we were doubtful as to our situation, and
approached the shore with cautious diffidence; at length the break in
the land, which forms the entrance of Port Philip, was observed, but a
surf, apparently breaking across it[8], created, at first, some mistrust
of its identity, until the man at the mast-head observing a ship at
anchor within, which was soon recognized for the Ocean, removed all
doubt, and without farther hesitation we pushed in for the entrance. A
fair wind and tide soon carried us through; and in a few minutes we were
presented with a picture highly contrasted with the scene we had lately
contemplated: an expanse of water bounded in many places only by the
horizon, and unruffled as the bosom of unpolluted innocence, presented
itself to the charmed eye, which roamed over it in silent admiration.
The nearer shores, along which the ship glided at the distance of a
mile, afforded the most exquisite scenery, and recalled the idea of
"Nature in the world's first spring." In short, every circumstance
combined to impress our minds with the highest satisfaction for our safe
arrival, and in creating those emotions which diffused themselves in
thanksgiving to that Almighty Guide, who conducted us through the
pathless ocean, to the spot of our destination.
[7. Named after P. G. King, Esq. the present Governor of New South
Wales.]
[8. This we afterwards found was occasioned by the rapidity of the ebb
tide, counteracted by the wind, which created a breaking sea, that must
destroy the best constructed open boat.]
CHAPTER. V.
Transactions at Port Philip from the Arrival to the Sailing of the
Calcutta.--Survey of the Port.--Natives.--Communication with Port
Jackson.--Determination to remove the Colony.--Examination of Western
Port.
The week following our arrival at Port Philip was occupied in searching
for an eligible place to fix the settlement. As it was of the first
consequence that this should be of easy access to shipping, the shores
near the mouth of the port were first examined. Here, to our great
mortification, we observed a total want of fresh water, and found the
soil so extremely light and sandy as to deny all hopes of successful
cultivation. As it was, however, determined to land the people, a small
bay, eight miles from the harbour's mouth, was pitched upon for that
purpose, where, by sinking casks, water of a tolerable quantity was
procured, and here the camp was pitched; and on the 16th of October, the
marines and convicts were landed, while the ships immediately began to
discharge their cargoes.
On the first days of our landing, previous to the general debarkation,
Capt. Woodriff, Colonel Collins, and the First Lieutenant of the
Calcutta had some interviews with the natives who came to the boats
entirely unarmed, and without the smallest symptom of apprehension;
presents of blankets biscuits &c. were given to them, with which, except
in one instance, they departed satisfied and inoffensive. The wash
streak of the boat striking one of their fancies, he seized it and threw
it behind some bushes; to shew him the impropriety of this, the blankets
which had before been given them were taken away, and they were made to
understand, that they would not be restored until the board was brought
back by him who conveyed it away: this, after some delay and much
reluctance, was at last done.
Though the vicinity of the harbour's mouth afforded no situation
calculated for the establishment of the colony, it was naturally
expected from the extent of the port, (its extremes being sunk in the
horizon,) that convenient spots might be found; and the First Lieutenant
of the Calcutta, with two boats, was directed to ascertain this material
point, by as careful a survey of the port as time would permit. From the
reports of this survey, made to Capt. Woodriff, the following
descriptive particulars are extracted.
Port Philip lies in the bottom of a deep bight between Cape Albany Otway
and Point Schank. Coming from the westward, the Port may be known by a
single bluff head-land without trees, rising from low land, thickly
wooded, about four leagues to the westward of the entrance, to which we
gave the name of Whale-head, from its resemblance to that fish. The
prevalence of southerly winds renders Port Philip easily accessible, but
in the same proportion the egress is difficult, for Point Schank bearing
S. E. and Cape Otway S. W. it is obvious that with the wind at south a
ship would not clear either, and the heavy swell that constantly tumbles
on the coast between Port Philip and Western Port, will often render it
impossible (particularly in light winds) to keep off the shore, which
here presents a continued barrier of rock, that denies the smallest
hopes of escape to those dashed upon it.
The face of the country bordering on the port is beautifully
picturesque, swelling into gentle elevations of the brightest verdure,
and dotted with trees, as if planted by the hand of taste, while the
ground is covered with a profusion of flowers of every colour; in short,
the external appearance of the country flattered us into the most
delusive dreams of fruitfulness and plenty.
The soil (except in a few places where marle is found mixed with
vegetable mould,) is invariably sandy, and its blackness proceeds from
the ashes of the burnt grass, which has everwhere been set fire to by
the natives. The proportion of sand varies, and in some spots the soil
may be sufficiently strong to produce vegetables, and, perhaps, Indian
corn; but it may safely be asserted, that (excepting a few acres at the
head of the port) no spot within five miles of the water will produce
wheat or any other grain that requires either much moisture or good
soil. On some of the highest elevations an arid sea-sand is found,
giving nourishment to no other vegetable than heath and fern. The bases
of the hills consist of very coarse granite, which is here found in
every stage of formation, from grains scarcely adhering, and crumbling
into sand between the fingers, to the perfect stone which almost defies
the chissel.
The great scarcity of water is one of the greatest disadvantages the
port labours under. In the narrow glens between the hills, the marks of
watercourses are visible, but at this time (October) they are mostly
dried up; pools of fresh water are found scattered about the port, but
they are merely drains from swamps, and from their stagnation are
strongly impregnated with decayed vegetable substances.
On the eastern side of the port, twenty-eight miles from the entrance, a
stream of fresh water empties itself into the port. This stream runs
through an extensive swamp, and appears to be a branch from a large
river, at the northern extremity of the port, which the shortness of
time and badness of the weather prevented our examining. The bed of this
stream is covered with foliaceous mica, which our people at first
conceived to be gold dust, and thence expected they had discovered an
Elsatedorado.
On the west side of the port is an extensive lagoon, the water of which
is too shoal to admit even small boats but at full tides; and in several
places salt lagoons are found, generally closed by the beach, where
ducks, teal, and swans are found in abundance.
The timber, within five miles of the beach, is chiefly the she-oak,
which is only fit for cabinet word; the trees are open, and the country
is entirely free from underwood, except in the swamps, which are always
covered with an impenetrable brush. The other kinds of timber trees are
very thinly scattered within the above limits; they are the blue-gum,
stringy-bark, honeysuckle, box, and a kind of pine; of these the three
first grow to a large size, and when sound, would probably be useful in
shipbuilding. From the lightness of the soil, as well as its want of
depth, the trees shoot their roots horizontally, and having no hold of
the ground, are blown down in great numbers by every strong wind.
Of potable vegetables, wild celery, wild parsnip, scurvy grass, and
samphire, were found in great abundance, and several other kinds were
eaten by our people[1]. The only fruits we found were the cone of the
she oak, which, when green, has a pleasantly acid taste, and a small
berry, called by the colonists the Port Jackson cherry.
[1. Vide Addenda II.]
The kangaroo is the largest animal yet discovered in New Holland; it
inhabits the neighbourhood of Port Philip in considerable numbers,
weighing from 50 to 150lb.; the native dog, the opossum, flying
squirrel, and field-rat make up the catalogue of animals we observed.
Aquatic birds are found in abundance on the lagoons, and are black
swans, ducks, teal, black and pied shags, pelicans, gulls, red-bills (a
beach bird), herons, curlows, and sand larks; the land birds are eagles,
crows, ravens, quail, bronze-winged pigeons, and many beautiful
varieties of the parrot tribe, particularly the large black cockatoo;
the emue is also a native of this part of the country, its eggs having
been found here. Three varieties of snakes were observed, all of which
appeared to be venomous. The species of insects are almost innumerable:
among them are upwards of one hundred and fifty different kinds of
beautiful moths; several kinds of beetles the animated straw, &c. The
swamps are inhabited by myriads of musquitoes of an extraordinary size;
but the common fly, which swarms almost beyond belief, possesses all the
offensive powers of the musquitoe, its sting creating an equal degree of
pain and inflammation. Wasps are also common, but no bees were seen.
Fish, it may safely be asserted, is so scarce that it could never be
depended on as a source of effectual relief in the event of scarcity.
Several varieties of the ray were almost the only ones caught, with
sometimes a few mullet, and other small fish; in general, a day's work
with the seine produced scarcely a good dish of fish. The number of
sharks which infest the harbour may occasion this scarcity of small
fish. The rocks outside the harbour's mouth are frequented by seals and
sea elephants. The shell-fish are oysters, limpits, mussels, escalops,
cockles, sea-ears; and very large cray-fish are found among the rocks.
Deeming minerals, as well as limestone, coal, and clays, of the greatest
consequence to the colony, particular attention was paid to searching
for them; the only appearance of minerals was in large masses of
iron-stone, in some specimens of which, the shape, colour, and weight
seemed to authorise the conclusion of its richness[2]. Lime-stone was
found in many places, but the search for coal was fruitless. Several
kinds of clay fit for pottery, bricks &c. were found in abundance, but
always, more or less, mixed with sand; indeed, after displacing a thin
covering of sand and ashes, the bottom, in most places, was found to be
a soft, friable sand stone of a yellowish colour.
[2. From this stone, when pulverised, the natives, I suppose, procure the
red earth with which they paint their faces.]
With respect to climate, we had not sufficient time to judge of its
effects on the human constitution; the vicissitudes of heat and cold are
very great, the thermometer varying from 50° to 96°, between sun-rise
and noon of the same day; and on the 19th and 21st of October it froze
pretty smartly at the head of the port. The N. W. winds, which come on
in violent squalls, have all the disagreeable effects of the sirocco of
the Levant, but seldom last more than an hour, when the wind returns to
the S. W. with thunder, lightning, and rain.[3]
[3. Vide Addenda III.]
The N. W. side of the port, where a level plain extends to the northward
as far as the horizon, appears to be by far the most populous; at this
place, upwards of two hundred natives assembled round the surveying
boats, and their obviously hostile intentions made the application of
fire-arms absolutely necessary to repel them, by which one native was
killed, and two or three wounded. Previous to this time, several
interviews had been held with separate parties, at different places,
during which the most friendly intercourse was maintained, and
endeavoured to be strengthened on our part, by presents of blankets,
beads, &c. At these interviews they appeared to have a perfect knowledge
of the use of fire-arms; and as they seemed terrified even at the sight
of them, they were kept entirely out of view. The last interview which
terminated so unexpectedly hostile, had at its commencement the same
friendly appearance. Three natives, unarmed, came to the boats, and
received fish, bread, and blankets. Feeling no apprehension from three
naked and unarmed savages, the First Lieutenant proceeded with one boat
to continue the survey, while the other boat's crew remained on shore to
dress dinner and procure water. The moment the first boat disappeared
the three natives took leave, and in less than an hour returned with
forty more, headed by a chief who seemed to possess much authority. This
party immediately divided, some taking off the attention of the people
who had charge of the tent, (in which was Mr. Harris the surveyor of the
colony,) while the rest surrounded the boats, the oars, masts, and sails
of which were used in erecting the tent. Their intention was to plunder
was immediately visible, and all the exertions of the boat's crew were
insufficient to prevent their possessing themselves of a tomahawk, an
axe, and a saw. In this situation, as it was impossible to get the boat
away, every thing belonging to her being on shore, it was thought
advisable to temporise, and wait the return of the other boat, without
having recourse to fire-arms, if it could possibly be avoided; and for
this purpose, bread, meat, and blankets were given them. These
condescensions, however, seemed only to increase their boldness, and
their numbers having been augmented by the junction of two other
parties, amounted to more than two hundred. At this critical time the
other boat came in sight, and observing the crowd and tumult at the
tent, pushed towards them with all possible dispatch. Upon approaching
the shore, the unusual warlike appearance of the natives was immediately
observed, and as they seemed to have entire possession of the tent,
serious apprehensions were entertained for Mr. Harris and two of the
boat's crew, who it was noticed were not at the boat. At the moment that
the grapnel was hove out of the Lieutenant's boat, to prevent her taking
the ground, one of the natives seized the master's mate, who had charge
of the other boat, and held him fast in his arms, a general cry of
"Fire, Sir; for God's sake, fire!" was now addressed from those on shore
to the First Lieutenant. Hoping the report only would sufficiently
intimidate them, two muskets were fired over their heads; for a moment
they seemed to pause, and a few retreated behind the trees, but
immediately returned, clapping their hands, and shouting vehemently.
Four musquets with buck shot, and the fowling-pieces of the gentlemen
with small shot, were now fired among them, and from a general howl,
very different from their former shouts, many were supposed to be
struck. This discharge created a general panic, and leaving their cloaks
behind, they ran in every direction among the trees. It was hoped the
business would have terminated here, and orders were, therefore, given
to strike the tent, and prepare to quit the territory of such
disagreeable neighbours. While thus employed, a large party were seen
again assembling behind a hill, at the foot of which was our tent: they
advanced in a compact body to the brow of the hill, every individual
armed with a spear, and some, who appeared to be attendants of others,
carrying bundles of them; when within an hundred yards of us they
halted, and the chief, with one attendant, came down to the tent, and
spoke with great vehemence, holding a very large war spear in a position
for throwing. The First Lieutenant, wishing to restore peace if
possible, laid down his gun, and advancing to the chief, presented him
with several cloaks, necklaces, and spears, which had been left behind
on their retreat; the chief took his own cloak and necklace, and gave
the others to his attendant. His countenance and gestures all this time
betrayed more of anger than fear, and his spear appeared every moment
upon the point of quitting his hand. When the cloaks were all given up,
the body on the hill began to descend, shouting and flourishing their
spears. Our people were immediately drawn up, and ordered to present
their musquets loaded with ball, while a last attempts were made to
convince the chief that if his people continued to approach they would
be immediately fired upon. These threats were either not properly
understood, or were despised, and it was deemed absolutely necessary for
our own safety, to prove the power of our fire-arms, before they came
near enough to injure us with their spears; selecting one of the
foremost, who appeared to be most violent, as a proper example, three
musquets were fired at him at fifty yards distance, two of which took
effect, and he fell dead on the spot, the chief turning round at the
report saw him fall, and immediately fled among the trees; a general
dispersion succeeded, and the dead body was left behind.
Among these savages, gradations of rank could be distinctly traced,
founded most probably upon personal qualities and external appearance.
In these respects the chief far excelled the rest; his figure was
masculine and well-proportioned, and his air bold and commanding. When
first he was seen approaching the boat, he was raised upon the shoulders
of two men, and surrounded by the whole party, shouting and clapping
their hands. Besides his cloak, which was only distinguished by its
superior size, he wore a necklace of reeds, and several strings of human
hair over his breast. His head was adorned with a coronet of the
wing-feathers of the swan, very neatly arranged, and which had a
pleasing effect. The fases of several were painted with red, white, and
yellow clays,[4] and others had a reed or bone ran through the septum of
the nose, perhaps increasing in length according to rank, for the
chief's was by far the longest, and must have measured at least two
feet. Ornamental scars on the shoulders were general and the face of one
was deeply pitted as if from the small-pox, though that disease in not
known to exist in New Holland[5]. A very great difference was observed
in the comparative cleanliness of these savages; some of them were so
abominably beastly, that it required the strongest stomach to look on
them without nausea, while others were sufficiently cleanly to be viewed
without disgust. The beards, which are remarkably bushy in the former
were allowed to grow, while in the latter they were cut close,
apparently by a sharp instrument, probably a shell.
[4. In viewing the manners of man in his most savage state, in which a
cultivated mind sees only disgusting images of wretchedness, we yet
cannot fail to notice that universal principle, which seems to act with
equal force upon the refined courtier of Europe and the wandering savage
of the desert. The Parisian beau cannot take greater pains in adjusting
his hair, or perfuming himself with the odours of the East, than the
savage does in bedaubing his face with clays, or anointing his skin with
the blubber of the whale. To carry the proof yet farther, we find that
savages who are unaquainted with the adventitious ornaments of dress
have recourse to various methods of altering the natural forms of the
limbs or features, or to marking the body with scars, punctures, &c.
which they deem highly ornamental. Among some tribes the head is
flattened, among others it is rendered more convex, but the nose and
ears are the chief objects of their personal vanity, and among all the
savage tribes I have seen, they undergo some kind of distortion. As
these operations are performed in infancy, when the parts are flexible,
and capable of taking any form, we are often led to conclude, that to be
the natural configuration, which is only the effect of artificial
distortion.]
[5. Two attempts have been made to convey the vaccine matter to New South
Wales, one by the Glatton, and the other by the Calcutta, but both
failed of success. Are we certain that any advantage would have accrued
from the introduction of such a disorder into the colony? Hear what a
celebrated writer says on this subject: "Distempers, local in their
origin, become more formidable when transplanted, than in their native
soil; the small-pox, so little feared in Europe, almost depopulated
America, and the plague is much more inveterate when it invades Europe,
than in its native East. This is easily accounted for; the human frame
is prepared by custom and by climate for the admission of the native
disease, which is not the case where it is transported." What opinion
would we form of an attempt to introduce a new disease into England,
merely to prevent the evils attending the possible introduction of the
plague!]
The only covering they make use of, to preserve their persons from the
winter's cold, is a square cloak of opossum skins, neatly sewed
together, and thrown loosely over their shoulders; the fleshy side,
which is worn inwards, is marked with parallel lines, forming squares,
lozenges, &c. and sometimes with uncouth human figures in the attitudes
of dancing.
Their arms are spears, used with a throwing stick, like those of Port
Jackson; their shields are made of a hard wood and neatly carved; their
war spears are barbed with pieces of white spar, of shark's teeth,
fastened on with red gum, and within a certain distance must be very
dangerous offensive weapons. Their fish-gigs are pointed with the bone
of the kangaroo, and with them they strike the rays which lay in shoal
water. We saw no fish hooks, no other implements for fishing in deep
water, nor any appearance of canoe, or other water conveyance[6]. Their
food consists chiefly of shell-fish, and their ingenuity in procuring
more substantial aliment, seems confined to the construction of a rude
trap, upon the projecting points of the harbour, where the water-fowl
lighting at night are entangled and caught. The scarcity of food must at
times reduce them to great extremities. If they ever quit the vicinity
of the water, their sole subsistence must be on lizards, grubs, and the
few opossums they may be able to kill; for the kangaroo, both by its
activity and wariness, I should suppose to be out of reach of their
weapons, or their ingenuity. The skins of these animals having never
been seen with the natives corroborates this opinion, and it is
probable, that the bones with which their fish-gigs are pointed, are
those of animals which have died a natural death. That they scruple not
to eat lizards and grubs, as well as a very large worm found in the
gum-trees, we had ocular demonstration; indeed the latter they seem to
consider a very great delicacy. Bread, beef, and fish, which they
received from us, they devoured with great eagerness, swallowing large
pieces without chewing, as if afraid of its being taken from them, but
in no instance could we get them to drink. Spirits they appeared to
dislike from the smell alone, and sweet punch they would taste and spit
out again with disapprobation. They chew the green leaves of various
plants, several of which had a slight astringent taste, and an aromatic
smell.
[6. I have since been informed, that canoes were found on the river at
the head of the port.]
The huts merely serve the purpose of temporary shelter from the weather.
They are constructed of branches of trees placed slanting and open on
one side, which is always to leeward; if a fallen tree is near, it
usually serves to support the hut, and sometimes when coarse grass is
convenient, it is interwoven with the branches. Their fires are made at
the very entrance of the huts, and if the wind shifts must be
immediately removed. We had no opportunity of observing their method of
first kindling a fire, as the parties we saw had always a fire-brand
with them, by which, and a little dry grass, they soon made a "roaring
blaze."
The only traces of society we could observe, was in a cluster of five
huts, near which a well of brackish water was probably the only
inducement to so close a neighbourhood. How they supply themselves with
water in general we were at a loss to guess, for, upon the closest
examination, none was found within several miles of the place where
they had constructed their huts.
We had a sufficient proof of their burying their dead, by finding a
human skeleton three feet under ground, while digging for water; its
decayed state evinced its having been in the ground long before the
arrival of any European at this port.
The only domestic utensil observed among them was a straw basket, made
with tolerable neatness. Their cookery is confined to broiling, in which
they are not very delicate; for the fish they sometimes received from us
were put on the fire, and devoured without the useless preparation of
gutting, cleaning, &c. Blankets they received with much satisfaction;
but though several to whom they were given paid us visits afterwards,
their blankets were always left behind, and they presented themselves
shivering with cold. This manoeuvre might probably have been intended to
induce a repetition of the gift, unless we suppose them to have been
given to their women, which would argue a degree of civilization, from
which they are immeasurably removed. Though in our first interviews they
seemed to be stupidly devoid of curiosity, and viewed our persons and
boats with the most perfect indifference, yet their latter conduct
shews, that many of our conveniences appeared valuable, and fear was at
last found much more powerful in deterring them from approriating those
things to themselves, than any idea of right or wrong.
The natives of this part of New South Wales appear to differ very little
from those in the vicinity of Port Jackson; the same cast of features
bespeaks the same origin; their arms, their ornaments, and their dances,
are much alike, and they seem to differ only in language, and in the
ceremony of knocking out a front tooth of every male, those of Port
Philip having their jaws perfect. One woman only was seen, who retired
by desire of the men on our approach, and one boy paid us a visit, from
whose conduct we could not infer the existence of a great degree of
subordination, founded on difference of age; this youngster was more
loquacious and troublesome than the men.
Nothing could offer a more perfect picture of reposing solitude, than
the wilds of Port Philip on our first arrival. Here Contemplation, with
her musing sister Melancholy, might find an undisturbed retreat. Often
at the calm hour of evening I have wandered through the woods,
Where the rude ax with heaved stroke
Was never heard the nymphs to daunt,
Or fright them from their hallow'd haunts.
The last hymn of the feathered choiristers to the setting sun, and the
soft murmers of the breeze, faintly broke the death-like silence that
reigned around; while the lightly trodden path of the solitary savage,
or the dead ashes of his fire, alone pointed out the existence of human
beings. In the course of a very few weeks the scene was greatly altered;
lanes were cut in the woods for the passage of the timber carriages; the
huts of the woodmen were erected beneath the sheltering branches of the
lofty trees; the "busy hum" of their voices, and the sound of their
axes, reverberating through the woods, denote the exertions of social
industry, and the labours of civilization. At other times, sitting on
the carriage of a gun, in front of the camp, I have contemplated with
succeeding emotions of pity, laughter, and astonishment, the scene
before me. When I viewed so many of my fellowmen, sunk, some of them
from a rank in life, equal to or superior to my own, and by their crimes
degraded to a level with the basest of mankind; when I saw them naked,
wading to their shoulders in water to unlade the boats, while a burning
sun struck its meridian rays upon their uncovered heads, or yoked to and
sweating under a timber carriage, the wheels of which were sunk up to
the axle in sand, I only considered their hapless lot, and the
rememberance of of their vices was for a moment absorbed in the
greatness of their punishment; I exclaimed with enthusiasm,
'Tis liberty alone that gives the flower
Of fleeting life its lustre and perfume,
And we are weeds without it.
When, on the other hand, I viewed the lively appearance of the camp, the
employments of the women, and the ridiculous dilemmas into which they
were every moment thrown by the novelty of their situations, I smiled,
and inwardly admiring the pliability of mind, which enables us to
accomodate ourselves to the vicissitudes of fortune, confessed that the
pride of independence, and the keen sensibility of prosperity, like
marks imprinted on the sand, are soon effaced by the current of adverse
circumstances. What once seemed more valuable than life itself, even
female virtue, grows weaker by degrees, and at last falls a sacrifice to
present convenience; so true is the poet's exclamation, that "want will
perjure the ne'er touch'd vestal."
And now again, when I consider the motives; when I contrasted the
powers, the ingenuity, and the resources of civilized man, with the
weakness, the ignorance, and the wants of the savage he came to
dispossess, I acknowledged the immensity of human intelligence, and felt
thankful for the small portion dispensed to myself. These thoughts
naturally led to the contemplation of future possibilities. I beheld a
second Rome, rising from a coalition of banditti. I beheld it giving
laws to the world, and superlative in arms and in arts, looking down
with proud superiority upon the barbarous nations of the northern
hemisphere; thus running over the airy visions of empire, wealth, and
glory, I wandered amidst the delusions of imagination.
The unfavourable account given of Port Philip, by the First Lieutenant
of the Calcutta, immediately presented the necessity of removing the
colony to a more eligible situation, but from a total want of knowledge
respecting any recent discoveries, which might have been made on the
neighbouring coasts, it was deemed necessary to receive instructions on
this head from the Governor in Chief at Port Jackson. The Ocean
transport, being now discharged, was to proceed on her voyage to China,
and could not, therefore, be detained without a heavy expence to
government. Thus the only means left of communicating with Port Jackson
was by an open boat; a six oared cutter was accordingly fitted for the
purpose, in which Mr. Collins (who came out on a sealing speculation)
undertook to convey the Lieutenant Governor's dispatches. After being
nine days at sea, and encountering much bad weather, he was picked up by
the Ocean (who sailed six days after him), within sixty miles of Port
Jackson, and by her conveyed thither. Governor King, from a correct
survey of Port Philip, made by Mr. Grimes, the Surveyor General of the
Colony, was already convinced of its ineligibility for a settlement, and
immediately chartered the Ocean to remove the establishment, either to
Port Dalrymple, on the north side of Van Diemen's land, or to the river
Derwent, on the south coast of the same island, where a small party from
Port Jackson was already established.
As the farther detention of the Calcutta, after the removal was finally
concluded on, would greatly retard the principal object of her voyage,
the conveying a cargo of ship timber to England, without any adequate
advantage to the Colony, she quitted Port Philip on the 18th of
December, leaving the Colonists preparing to re-embark on board the
Ocean.
While the Calcutta remained at Port Philip, besides the necessary duties
of the ship, the crew were actively employed in collecting such
specimens of ship-timber as the place afforded; and about one hundred
and fifty pieces of compass timber, chiefly honeysuckle, were
procured.[7]
[7. Vide Addenda, No. IV.]
During the period of uncertainty, between the sailing of the boat, and
the return of advices from Port Jackson, the First Lieutenant of the
Calcutta, with several other officers, and a party of convicts to carry
provisions, proceeded by land to examine Western Port[7a.], and ascertain
the correctness of the description given of it by the first discoverers,
particularly with respect to coal, in which it was said to abound. From
the camp we proceeded across the peninsula to where the ridge of
Arthur's Seat descends to the sea. This peninsula is formed entirely of
sand, thrown up into round hillocks, and covered with coarse grass in
tufts; the only trees here are the she-oak, which are small and open.
After passing the ridge of Arthur's Seat we proceeded in a direction due
east, nearly Parallel to the sea-shore, of which we sometimes came in
sight, until we reached a point projecting into the sea, which we
supposed to be Cape or Point Schank; in this space the land continues to
rise, and forms in larger and steeper hills, separated by narrow glens,
but the soil is still very sandy, and no water is to be found, even by
digging in the hollows several feet deep. After passing Cape Schank, the
country immediately assumes a quite different appearance; the soil
changes to a stiff clay; the she-oak gives place to the blue-gum, and
two strong runs of water fall into the sea immediately under the Cape.
Here we halted for the night, and, following the example of the natives,
erected a hut, and made a fire within a few feet of its entrance. This
point we supposed to be twenty five miles distant from the camp. At
day-light we again commenced our march, guided by a pocket-compass; and
keeping at the distance of between three and five miles from the sea at
noon reached Western Port, about two miles from its entrance. From Cape
Schank the country is varied by hills and vallies, the soil of the
former being a stiff clay, with very lofty gum-trees; and of the latter,
a rich black mould several feet deep, except in a few spots where a
black peaty earth was found. The grass in these vallies is extremely
luxuriant; some of them are over grown with under-wood, while others
possess scarce a single shrub. In this track are several small runs of
water, emptying themselves into the sea by deep ravines.
[7a. Western Port was discovered by Lieutenant Flinders, in 1799.]
Our examination of Western Port was unavoidably confined to the space of
a few miles on the western shore; this was principally owing to the man
who carried the whole of our bread, having absconded soon after quitting
the camp, and to our being deceived in the extent of the Port, as well
as the distance to it; which we found much greater than we had any idea
of.
We were provisioned only for four days, at short allowance; for trusting
to our guns for an addition to our fare, we employed most of our party
to carry water, being ignorant whether any was to be found in our route.
From the entrance of the Port for about twelve miles along the western
shore, there is but one place of commodious landing for boats; the beach
being either a black plate rock, or a flat sand running out a quarter of
a mile; upon which a long and dangerous surf continually breaks. There
are three good runs of water in this space, which falling from the
hills, form pools at their base, and are absorbed by the soft sand of
the beach. We found these pools covered with teal of a beautiful
plumage, and, what was to us of much more importance, of a delicious
flavor.
As our track to Western Port had never diverged more than five miles
from the sea, it was determined, on returning, to endeavour to penetrate
through the country in a N. W. direction, which we supposed would bring
us to Port Philip at about twenty miles distance from the camp. We
accordingly set off at daylight of the third day, from our night's
station, which was about five miles from the entrance of Western Port,
and had scarce walked a quarter of a mile when we came to an immense
forest of lofty gum-trees. The country here becomes very mountainous: in
the vallies or rather chasms between the mountains, small runs of water
trickle through an almost impenetrable jungle of prickly shrubs, bound
together by creeping plants. After passing eight of these deep chasms in
six miles, which was accomplished with infinite difficulty in four
hours, we found the country grows still more impenetrable, vast fields
of shrub as prickly as furze arresting our progress every moment.
Several of our people who carried the water, being unable to bear the
fatigue any longer, we were obliged to give up our intention; and after
a short rest, we shaped our course to the S. W. in order to approach the
sea, where the country becomes open and less hilly. In this direction we
found the country well-watered, the soil very rich, and in many places
meadows of from fifty to an hundred acres, covered with grass five feet
high, and unincumbered with a single tree. At sun-set we reached the sea
at Cape Schank, and, halting for the night, arrived at the camp in the
afternoon of the next day.
Our search for coal, which we were given to understand abounded at
Western Port, was fruitless; but our examination was too circumscribed
and superficial to authorize any positive assertion respecting it.
The coast between the ridge of Arthur's Seat and Western Port is bound
by rocks of black stone, which was found to burn to a strong lime. The
projecting points of land are high, bluff, and perpendicular, presenting
a barrier to the sea which breaks against them, even in the finest
weather, with violence, denying shelter by anchorage, or safety by
running on shore for the smallest boat.
Besides herds of kangeroos, four large wolves were seen at Western Port.
Very beautiful bronze-winged pigeons with black and white cockatoos, and
innumerable parrots, inhabit the woods.
Though this excursion added but little to the knowledge of the country,
it is hoped it will not be entirely devoid of utility. In those spots
which appeared best adapted to the purpose, seeds from Rio Janeiro and
the Cape were sown, viz. oranges, limes, melons, pumpkins, Indian corn,
and several kinds of garden seeds.
But two huts were found in our track, and not a native was seen; indeed
the kangaroo seems to reign undisturbed lord of the soil, a dominion
which, by the evacuation of Port Philip, he is likely to retain for
ages.
Several convicts absconded from the camp soon after their landing, led
away by the most delusive ideas of reaching Port Jackson, or getting on
board some whaler, which they ignorantly believed occasionally touched
on this coast; some of them were brought back by parties sent after
them, and others returned voluntarily, when nearly famished with hunger.
Two only of these unfortunate beings were never heard of after leaving
the camp, one of these was George Lee, a character well known to several
persons of respectability in England.
After the Calcutta quitted Port Philip, a vessel was sent to examine
Port Dalrymple; the accounts brought back not being so favourable as was
hoped for, it was finally determined to remove the Colony to the river
Darwent, which was partly accomplished before the Calcutta sailed from
Port Jackson. The name of Hobart was given to the Settlement, and the
most flattering accounts were received from the Lieutenant Governor, of
the situation, soil, and climate. Speaking of the climate, he says, that
it may be considered the Montpelier of New South Wales.
The remainder of the Calcutta's voyage was almost totally barren of
incident, either to amuse or instruct. She sailed from Port Philip the
18th of December, and passing through Bass's Straits, without
experiencing any difficulties, arrived at Port Jackson the 26th. Here
she took in a cargo of ship timber (about six hundred logs) and sailed
again on the 17th March 1804; passed to the southward of New Zealand,
which was seen on the 29th; doubled Cape Horn on the 27th April, and
arrived at Rio de Janeiro the 22d May; thus accomplishing a voyage round
the world, discharging and receiving a cargo, in eleven months